Using Top Stitches for Texture and Flair
As I have gotten better with my sewing, I have discovered my thread lines have also gotten much straighter. When I was first starting out, I would try to sew as quickly as possible to get my garment completed. This never works out since I made a bunch of mistakes and just had to rip out my seams and go over them again. I started going slower and also began to iron seams and hems as I went along in my projects. The result was an article of clothing that I was proud of and eager to wear over and over again. Taking my time with my hems, I also noticed that I could use top stitching as a decorative feature.
Let’s start with what top stitching is and its purpose in clothing. You may have seen top stitching in many of your clothes, but the color thread is the same color as the fabric. Many blouses and button-down shirts use topstitching in the collars and cuffs to help stabilize the fabric. You never want your collar fabric to slip around or your cuffs to awkwardly fold when you want to look professional and polished. Skirts will also use a topstitch around the waist to keep the yoke in place. I also top stitch many of my seams in dresses so they do not bunch and create a sloppy look when I wear them. With the Myrna dress from Collette, I used top stitching all through the pattern because of all the seams. I didn’t want to create ripples. Plus it created a nice texture to the dress which I was not expecting.
You can get more elaborate with decorative topstitching depending on your machine options.
I use topstitching to create a nice contrast on my fabric as well as a stabilizing feature. I have not delved into more creative topstitching as some have done with their garments. It is on my list of to do however. Especially if you have a solid color fabric and you want it to stand out a little more. You can go with the simple straight stitch, to a zigzag, then graduate to a super neat pattern. Admittedly, these are all selections from my machine. I have seen some quilters go all free hand and make pretty scrolling topstitch patterns.
This double needle was taken from some shits I was wearing. Since I serge my hems, you can see the hem better here.
Here is where topstitching can get a bit more fun. Double needles. That’s right. Using the double needle to finish off your project and topstitching. It took me way too long to start using these in my stretch knit projects. When you use the double needles with your stretch knits, it will allow the fabric to stretch. That way you don’t knave to cringe when you hear your hem thread snap after you just put on that new t-shirt you just made. Read through your sewing machines instructions to make sure you have this feature, but I rarely see sewing machines without it. Usually you will need a spindle attachment. The double needle also gives your garment a nice professional look to it.
Some tips for you as you start your topstitching grand adventure:
1. Drive slow. If you are like me, you tend to press that foot down on your sewing pedal to get that needle moving super quickly. This will result in crooked lines. Try to slow it down at first. Listen to your favorite music, play your favorite movie in the background, or listen to a podcast.
2. Use your guidelines. Those ruler markings are not just there for decoration. I actually put a colorful hair tie to make my line. This way I don’t forget if it I was on the 10 or the 20 when I walk away from my project for a minute (or a few days).
3. Don’t be so tense. What I mean by that is to check your tension. You don’t want your stitches too tight or too loose when you are creating a topstitch decoration. But you may also want to roll out those shoulders while you are at it! I know I can tense up when I am sewing for hours!
4. The long and the short of it. Make sure your check your stitch length on a scrape bit of fabric first. It may look goofy if the stitch length is too short or too long.
Get creative with your topstitching! If you don’t want to get too wild at first, just get a different color thread to contrast your fabric at first. Then start using different decorative stitches. You do not have to go all in at once. Start experimenting with simple stitches then get more fancy. You may want to try to use multiple decorative stitches around the help of a skirt or pair of shorts in the future for a super fancy look!